To be honest, I don't know too much about the specifics of what Christmas will be like because last year I didn't really "do" Christmas. I’d just gotten to my village less than two weeks before and I knew maybe 6 people. I didn’t know where the church was or what they were doing to celebrate and I didn't really know how to ask. I didn’t have presents for anyone, I wasn’t cold... it just didn't feel like Christmas. I missed stage and I missed home. I was scared. So I hid in my hut and pretended it wasn’t Christmas. The only person that came to see me was my neighbor, who wished me a "Joyeaux Noel" and invited me to hang out with his family. Which was really nice until he gave me a beer at 8 am, which I couldn’t refuse (I tried several times), and which I proceeded to throw up all over the courtyard. I said I was sick and went back to sleep. I maybe read a book and ate oatmeal. Not exactly the kind of holiday you write home about. But this year I made plans.
To begin with, right now it's cold. At least at night and in the AM for me. I had to suck it up and buy another blanket because I kept waking up 3 times a night shivering. I also have to wear socks until 9am and heat up my bucket-bath. It's probably only gets down to 65 or so, but it feels about 20 degrees colder to me. (Everyone else here is wearing earmuffs and parkas if they can afford them. Seriously.) I don't remember ever being this cold last year. I'm gonna turn into a popsicle when I get back next year. I miss how pretty snow is though. The kids here would go crazy over snowballs.
It's also surprisingly un"christmas-season-y". No Christmas music or carols, which really makes more of a difference than you'd think. Though I heard a Justin Bieber's new Christmas song on the BBC (first "new" song I've heard, and it was weird) and I am listening to itunes now, which is amazing. No shops or hurried shoppers here, just a market day that's a little busier than normal right before the fete. Ouaga, the capital, is a different story, but it always is. Commercial Christmas, gaudy tinsel and fake trees were everywhere on the taxi ride in to town this morning from the bus stop. It's sickening really. (Though to be honest, I would have totally gone for Christmas lights, but seeing as I don't have electricity anymore...) In village there is no hurried or rushed or busy anything. I remember having a lot to do and go to at Christmastime in the US. Time here is just different.
I plan on going to church for a service Christmas eve (apparently a 3 hour long service because "we really want to thank God") and then again on Christmas morning: undecided as to if it's gonna be Catholic or Assembly of God. It's nice to have the focus of Christmas be more legit and simple, but it would be a lot better for me personally if I could understand what they were saying. As much as I try to work on my Moore, it's still "bilfu-bilfu" (very little), mostly consisting of greetings, yelling at kids, and bargaining for tomatoes. The singing and dancing and drums, at least, will be worth it. I love those drums. I think all churches should have African drums-- especially for Christmas.
The rest of my day will most likely consist of partying, which here means being given dolo and lots of good food by neighbors. I am also planning on showing the neighborhood kids How the Grinch Stole Christmas on my computer and making popcorn (sadly, no TV dinners available). Some traditions are worth keeping :)
I am really missing my family as expected, and America's own version of Christmas. But my village is really excited I'm staying with them to celebrate and that makes me happy.
Wherever you are in the world, the birth of that Jewish kid who turned the world and its expectations upside down is still something to celebrate, no matter how you do it. I miss you all and I wish you a Christmas full of love, laughter, and a full heart.
Love to you and yours, JK
